Is Tram 28 worth the queue or is there a sane alternative?
Accepted answer
Ride tram 12 from Martim Moniz — same hills, same rattle, no queue. Or board 28 at Prazeres and ride it backwards into town before 09:00.
Lisbon
Pastéis de Belém or any good pastelaria?
Accepted answer
The one on your corner is 95% as good warm. Belém is worth it once, on a weekday, via the takeaway line — eat them on the monastery wall.
Sintra day trip — drive or train?
Accepted answer
They're right. Parking in Sintra is a blood sport; the train from Rossio is 40 minutes. Bus 434 or walk up — driving to Pena is the mistake you can't undo.
Fado that isn't a tourist dinner show?
Accepted answer
Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto — free entry, drinks only, singers drop in. Go before 21:00 or stand.